A First-Timer's Guide to Dublin, Scotland + London

Recapping an unforgettable 10 days with my besties.

Hello!!

I’ve missed y’all. As I mentioned last time I slid into your inboxes, I’m in the middle of a move, which is high-key awful (but will be worth it!!). And just last week, I got back from a 10-day trip to Dublin, Edinburgh, the Scottish Highlands, and London with Alex and LJ, two of my best friends since elementary school, and we had the literal best time.

None of us had been to Ireland or Scotland before, and only Alex had been to London. Just in case you’re also headed over for the first time, I thought a recap was in order.

But first, a few packing essentials that kept me sane:

• Calpak Luka Duffel, $128 $108: This carry-on holds a TON, so much that it could probably replace a carry-on suitcase. We stored our large bags during our Highlands tour (more on that later) so a bag this size—and with this many pockets—came in clutch.

• Calpak packing cubes, $68 $47.50: Full disclosure: My actual packing cubes are Paravel but don’t seem to be available anymore? But I’m a full convert to packing cube culture so had to name ‘em.

• White + Warren cashmere travel wrap, $350: The OG, and still the best. Used it on the plane as a blanket and on the trip when it got windy and chilly.

• Uniqlo Round Ultra Mini Bag, $15: The only purse I brought with me! It’s wee but mighty. I also love that you can clip it as a little clutch.

• Ray-Ban Meta Sunglasses, $299: I have had these for a few months (gifted from a short trip with Meta to Austin last year) but this was the first time I really used them, and the pics and video were undeniably good! And they are very seamless to use. A fun gadget.

• Bombas compression socks, $28: I’m in my 30s and I need these now.

Now, first up…

Dublin

Day 1:

Once we got settled at our hotel (a cute, no-frills spot called the Temple Bar Inn right in the heart of, yes, Temple Bar a.k.a. the big touristy area), we went on a free walking tour of central Dublin. It was such a good way to get a lay of the land, and we immediately fell in love with our tour guide Martin, a retiree who does tours for fun after an illustrious career in finance (origin story made up entirely by us). It happened to be the hottest day of the year so far and it was just a lovely way to kick everything off.

We wrapped up with fish and chips at a pub around the corner—there are so many to choose from—then fell asleep around 8p, because jet lag and 30s.

Day 2:

If you take away one thing about Dublin, it’s that you must do the Guinness tour. None of us are big beer drinkers, and really didn’t have any expectations—and we were obsessed. It’s very well done, has lots of ASMR-y moments, and of course tons of history. Plus a great gift shop. You get a pint included with your tour too, and we brought ours down to one of the restaurants for lunch, which was quite good.

After that, we shopped around for a little and found our new favorite store, Oliver Bonas, before heading to Trinity College to visit the Book of Kells and the Long Room. For the uninitiated (like moi), the Book of Kells is a centuries-old New Testament that the VIKINGS STOLE. But it survived and now you can pay to see it. We were all in awe of The Long Room—quite literally a long-ass library—too, even with most of the books removed for restoration.

Dinner that night was at a local institution, Trocadero, recommended by my former work wife Brittany Talarico, followed by ice cream at Murphy’s around the corner. We wrapped up with one last Guinness at Palace Bar—and the next morning were off to…

Scotland